Sponge:

• 1 teaspoon instant yeast, (.11 ounce )
• 4 cups (500 g) unbleached high-gluten flour or bread flour, (18 ounces )
• 2 cups (500 ml) water, at room temperature, (16 ounces )

Dough:

• ½ teaspoon (0.5 teaspoon) instant yeast, (.055 ounce)
• 3¾ cups (468.75 g) unbleached high-gluten or bread flour, (17 ounces )
• 8 egg yolks
• 2¾ teaspoons (2.75 teaspoons) salt, (.7 ounce )
• 2 teaspoons malt powder OR 1 Tablespoon dark or light malt syrup, honey or brown sugar, (.33 ounce )

To Finish:

• 1 Tablespoon baking soda
• Cornmeal or semolina flour for dusting
• Poppy seeds, optional

• 1. Make the Sponge: In a 4-quart mixing bowl, combine the instant yeast and 4 cups of flour. Add 2 cups of water, stirring or whisking just until all the flour is thoroughly hydrated and no dry spots remain. Cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap and let it sit at room temperature for about 2 hours, or until the mixture becomes very foamy, bubbly, and nearly doubles in size. It should noticeably deflate when you gently tap the bowl on the countertop. This sponge is crucial for developing deep flavor.
• 2. Prepare the Dough: To the prepared sponge in the same mixing bowl (or transfer to the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a dough hook), add the remaining ½ teaspoon of instant yeast and stir to combine. Next, add 3 cups of the remaining flour, the 8 egg yolks, all of the salt, and the malt powder (or syrup/honey/brown sugar). Stir (or mix on low speed with the dough hook) until the ingredients come together to form a shaggy ball of dough. Gradually incorporate the remaining ¾ cup flour, adding it in small increments, until the dough stiffens considerably.
• 3. Knead the Dough: Transfer the stiff dough to a clean, lightly floured counter. Knead by hand for at least 10 minutes, or for about 6 minutes using an electric mixer with a dough hook on medium-low speed. The goal is a firm, robust dough that is stiffer than typical French bread dough, yet still pliable and smooth to the touch. Ensure all ingredients are fully hydrated, with no streaks of raw flour. The dough should pass the “windowpane test” (where a small piece can be stretched thin enough to see light through it without tearing) and its internal temperature should ideally be between 77° to 81°F. If the dough feels too dry and tears easily, add a few drops of water and continue kneading. If it’s too sticky, gradually add small amounts of flour until the desired stiffness and satiny, pliable texture are achieved.
• 4. Divide the Dough: Immediately after kneading, divide the dough into individual pieces. For standard-sized bagels, aim for 4½-ounce pieces. If you prefer mini bagels, divide them into smaller portions. Gently form each piece into a smooth, round roll.
• 5. First Rest: Cover the rolls with a lightly damp towel to prevent them from drying out, and let them rest at room temperature for approximately 20 minutes. This short rest allows the gluten to relax, making shaping easier.
• 6. Prepare for Shaping: Line two large baking sheets with parchment paper and lightly mist them with cooking spray. You can now choose one of two traditional methods for shaping your bagels:
• 6a. The Poke Method: Take a dough ball and gently poke a hole directly through its center with your thumb. Carefully rotate your thumb around the inside of the hole, widening it evenly to approximately 2½ inches in diameter. Try to ensure the dough stretches uniformly, avoiding any thick or thin sections.
• 6b. The Rope Method: Roll out a piece of dough into an 8-inch long rope. Wrap the rope around the palm and back of your hand, threading it between your thumb and forefinger. Overlap the ends by several inches. Press the overlapping ends firmly onto the counter with the palm of your hand, rocking back and forth to create a secure seal.
• 7. Second Rest: Place the shaped bagels on the prepared pans, spacing them about 2 inches apart. Lightly mist the bagels themselves with spray oil. Slip each pan into a food-grade plastic bag or cover loosely with plastic wrap. Allow the pans to sit at room temperature for approximately 20 minutes.
• 8. The Float Test and Cold Proofing: To determine if your bagels are ready for cold proofing in the refrigerator, perform the “float test.” Fill a small bowl with cool or room-temperature water. Gently drop one bagel into the water. If it floats to the surface within 10 seconds, it’s ready. Immediately retrieve the tester bagel, pat it dry, return it to the pan, cover the pan, and place it in the refrigerator overnight. (Bagels can be safely cold-proofed in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.) If the test bagel does not float, return it to the pan and continue proofing at room temperature, rechecking every 10 to 20 minutes until a tester floats. The exact time required for the float test will vary based on ambient temperature and dough stiffness.
• 9. Prepare for Baking: The following day (or when you’re ready to bake), preheat your oven to 500°F (260°C) with two oven racks positioned in the middle. Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil – a wider pot is generally more convenient. Add 1 tablespoon of baking soda to the boiling water; this helps create the signature chewy crust. Have a slotted spoon or skimmer ready for handling the bagels.
• 10. Boil the Bagels: Remove the cold-proofed bagels from the refrigerator. Gently drop them into the boiling water, making sure not to overcrowd the pot. Boil only as many as can comfortably fit and float freely. After 1 minute, flip them over with the slotted spoon and boil for another minute. For an extra-chewy bagel, you can extend the boiling time to 2 minutes per side. While the bagels are boiling, generously sprinkle your parchment-lined baking sheets with cornmeal or semolina flour to prevent sticking. If you wish to add toppings like poppy seeds or sesame seeds, do so immediately after the bagels emerge from the boiling water, while they are still wet.
• 11. Bake to Perfection: Once all the bagels have been boiled and topped (if desired), place the pans on the two middle shelves in your preheated oven. Bake for approximately 5 minutes. Then, rotate the pans 180 degrees, switching their positions between the shelves (e.g., top pan moves to bottom, bottom to top). If you are only baking one pan, simply rotate it 180 degrees on the center shelf. After rotating, reduce the oven temperature to 450°F (232°C) and continue baking for about 5 more minutes, or until the bagels achieve a beautiful light golden-brown color. You can bake them for slightly longer if you prefer a darker, crispier crust.
• 12. Cool and Serve: Carefully remove the pans from the oven and transfer the hot bagels to a wire rack to cool. Allow them to cool for at least 15 minutes, or longer, before slicing and serving. This cooling time is essential for the texture to set properly.